Heading towards Tadoba Forest Sanctuary
We are finally on the way to our college reunion. The group is split into a few cars heading to the Tadoba Tiger Reserve. An evening of catch up and memories awaits.
While most of the others have their family roots in this part of this world, I am the one who had spent a great time here about three decades ago and then moved away. It meant that I had more to reminisce about. This trip for me was about refreshing those memories faded by the passage of time.
Soon, we were out of the bustling city. A brief stopover at a roadside stall for breakfast was always on the cards. While I cradled a cup of tea, the others ordered a delicacy I have missed for a long while—the spicy, tangy tari poha. I have a sensitive stomach today, so I restricted myself to a single spoonful. The tingling curry evokes old memories, but I am remaining careful.
With breakfast done, we hit the highway. The traffic thins out as we leave Nagpur behind. The landscape opens up as we head into the heart of Vidarbha. The highway running through the heartland is lined with teak and a local species of thorny acacia.
Vidarbha Villages black soil and Cotton fields
Just beyond them, the cotton fields stretched into the distance. Grey stalks stood tall, adorned at their tops by white cotton sprouts. It was a riot of contrasts: the black soil and grey stalks with their dainty white crowns set against the blue sky and the bright orange sun looking over them.
One of the friends in the car works for the government irrigation department in this area and knows the region like the back of his hand. He quietly suggested we take a detour to see a temple. My eyes lit up when he mentioned it was from the 10th century. This truly excited me; I had spent the better part of two decades here during my youth and never knew this place existed.
On his instructions, we decided to ditch the main highway and dive onto a road that dipped into the hinterland. The landscape didn’t change, but it felt more intimate, crowding around us. Cotton fields still stretched out on either side of the narrow road, and the brilliant Flame of the Forest trees were in bloom. It is currently the Holi festival season—the time for these trees to blossom. Their brilliant red is a spectacular spark set against the parched brown landscape.
I have traveled through the countryside of most of South India, but the Central Indian landscape is of a different breed. The colors are distinct, the people dress differently, and the foliage belongs to a different spectrum. Small villages sit alongside the road as we drive—some with tiled houses lining the path and others set further back. Cattle are shepherded along the way: brown cows, burly buffaloes, and cute calves.
Just a few miles in and we reach the temple that my friend had mentioned. It is a magnificent structure. The size just overshadows everything around it. One wonders what would have been around it when it would have been at the peak of its glory.
This is the Bhonda Mahadev Temple and the village is Bhatala.
The 10th Century marvel at Bhatala
The temple is believed to have been built in the 10th century, presumably during the Rashtrakuta reign. Its style is thought to be rooted in the brick-based construction methods that began around the 5th century under the Vakatakas. The structure appears to have incorporated evolving architectural styles right through to the Rashtrakuta era.
Constructed from distinct yellow sandstone, the temple houses a five-foot-tall Shiva Linga. Its name, “Bhonda” (meaning headless), refers to the absence of its original spire, which was reportedly destroyed by lightning centuries ago. The Shiva Linga fills the sanctum, and a few people are offering prayers as we stand by, watching. There seems to be no priest around; it is just the devotees offering their own prayers.
It is a brilliant place to soak in the history of this region.
There are also signs of deliberate defacement on the temple walls—statues chipped and disfigured in a pattern that suggests intent rather than accident. Who did this, when, and why remains unclear to me. It is a question I hope someone with a deeper knowledge of this region’s history might one day help me answer.
While the ancient structure stands gracefully, brightly lit in the hot afternoon sun, life around it continues. Families have gathered nearby, preparing lunch; it looks as if an entire village is on a pilgrimage. Brinjals, onions, and garlic are being chopped, and large vessels are being readied. A feast is in the offing.
Nearby, children are playing cricket while a few wizened, elderly men in white turbans sit in the shade. I wonder what they might be discussing.
I would have liked to stay longer, but the old gang was waiting to catch up. The other cars had already reached the resort, and somewhere ahead, old friends were waiting—people I had not seen in years, people who belonged to the same chapter of life as this landscape.
Time to go…..
We continued our journey to Tadoba, where an even more elusive resident was waiting—read about our tiger safari sightings here.”
Sudhir Bhattathiripad
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Trip Guide Note: Bhonda Mahadev Temple, Bhatala
How to Reach
The temple is about 150 Kms from Nagpur towards Chandrapur
When to Visit
- Best Season: October to March, when the weather is pleasant.
- Best Time of Day: Early morning or late evening for peaceful darshan and beautiful light on the temple carvings.
- Festivals: Maha Shivratri is the most vibrant time to visit, with special rituals and local celebrations.
Nearest Places
- Warora Town: The nearest hub for food, transport, and local markets.
- Chandrapur City: Known for Anchaleshwar Temple, Chandrapur Fort, and cultural heritage.
Additional Places to Explore
- Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve: A must-visit for wildlife enthusiasts, offering safaris and rich biodiversity.
- Anchaleshwar Temple (Chandrapur): Another important Shiva shrine with historical significance.
- Bhadravati: Famous for Jain temples and ancient ruins.
- Shilpagram (Bhatala Village): Explore remnants of Maurya, Satavahana, Vakataka, Gupta, and Chalukya dynasties in local sculptures.
Travel Tip: Combine spiritual exploration at Bhonda Mahadev with cultural sightseeing in Chandrapur and a safari at Tadoba for a well-rounded itinerary.
This article is a part of a Series on Vidarbha in Maharasthra. Read more below
The Vidarbha Series:
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