Exploring Ratnagiri: Mango Orchards and Coastal Charms (Konkan Trail Part 2)

Mango Orchards and Fishing hamlets

The Amboli morning is sparkling. A slight chill lingers.

The breakfast is some neer dosas with a green coconut chutney. This is Konkan stuff all the way. Amboli is the start, with more to come.

As the sun creeps up and threatens to flex its muscles, we start for the drive up to the coast. We plan a local detour to see the much talked about Amboli waterfalls.

It is a complete dud — an impoverished stream tumbling through a few gaps in the rocks along the hill slopes Perhaps it earns its reputation in the monsoon. In October, it surely doesn’t.

The Drive from Amboli to Ratnagiri.

The waterfall is done in quick time and we are on the way to Ratnagiri. The mountains of Amboli give way to flatter lands. The land undulates but flattens steadily as we push north. Skirting Sawantwadi, the road swings north up the coast.

Kudal comes next. Yet another of the towns which have seen better times. Like Savantwadi , Kudal also had local dynasties which developed them into organised kingdoms. The Sawant Bhosale dynasty and the Desai’s of Kudal held control over this land. However they found the going tough as the Mughals,Marathas and then the British proved stronger.

From being personal kingdoms at their peaks, these are now just mere government districts, ignored and neglected at the cost of the more glamorous parts like Mumbai and Pune. The signs of a town stagnating are all there -a crumbling archway, brown buildings and faded signboards.

Behind us, the mountains recede into the distance. Ahead, a carpet of dark tree-green stretches into the horizon.

The Land of Alphonso Mangoes and Cashews

The land of mangoes is here. It stretches in all directions. Always a serious green , sometimes short but always robust the mango trees are everywhere. A patch of a lighter shade tells the discerning eye of the presence of another cash crop , the cashew.

The cashew — a South American native brought to India by the Portuguese — pops up here and there in Konkan, a valuable cash crop in its own right. But the mango is the undisputed king.

Small towns appear in the flat lands. Men on motorcycles appear around the bends. In the distance one can see barns. Big buildings producing mango pulp and mango pulp sheets are the main employers.

Ratnagiri: Where the Sea Meets History

It is almost a three hour drive along these roads before the coast appears. The air is a bit heavier and humid. As one turns around a hillock lined with military green trees, the sea appears. A sparkling sea, blue and golden at times from the slanted sunlight. It comes out of nowhere and then continues to stay with you as you motor along the road parallel to the sea. Dark and wiry casuarina trees stand guard to the coast line.

The smell of fish is in the air. Fishing boats dot the distance. Nets hang drying on the walls of every house. From mango to fish it is a seamless transition.

The roads are busy now and soon one drives into Ratnagiri. The town where the sweetness of mango and the pungent smell of dried fish are both a part of daily life.

Welcome to Ratnagiri.